RV and Trailer Weight Demystified

I don't believe there is an RV-related subject thathad no clue how to truly help. Of the dealers that
causes more arguments than RV weight, unlesseither weren't properly knowledgeable or those that
maybe it's the argument over trailer vs. 5th wheel vs.were downright dishonest, most tried to convince us
motor coach. Between the cryptic way that RVthat the only weight that mattered was the UVW
weights are reported by the manufacturers, the lackand whether or not that was at or below our tow
of clear standards by the DOT and the oftenvehicle's max towing capacity. In addition, I don't
deliberate misinformation spread by RV dealers; RVknow how many dealers tried to convince us that
weights are confusing at best. We recentlythese weight ratings have a little "fudge factor"
purchased a new RV - a process that finallyengineered into them.
prompted me to attempt to fully understand thisOne of the smartest things we did was speak to our
subject. The following is what I learned, and in myattorney before making a purchase. He informed us
humble opinion, an authoritative explanation of whatthat exceeding any of the weight ratings of the RV
the truth really is.or the tow vehicle was nothing more than a
Let's start with the 2 stickers that are required bynegligence lawsuit waiting to happen. If it's proven
law on every RV sold in America. The RVthat you exceeded the manufacturer's ratings in any
manufacturer is required to include a Weight Stickerway, it can easily be argued that constitutes
on the RV that details all the important weight ratingsnegligence on your part in the event of an accident.
and maximums. This sticker is usually located on theThat can lead to problems ranging from very large
inside of one of the kitchen cabinet doors. The othersettlement amounts to even the possibility of your
sticker required by law is a tire capacities sticker. Thisinsurance company refusing to pay the claim due to
is usually outside the RV, somewhere near the hitchthe negligence on your part. Simply put, don't exceed
on towable RV's. It can be on the inside door frame,these weights under any circumstances.
near the engine compartment or on the inside of theThe best way to look at it is to take each and every
service door for motor coaches. In addition to thesemaximum rating and make sure you are under every
2 stickers on the RV, you'll also need the ratingsone of them. Especially after you are loaded, fueled
from your tow vehicle if working with a towable.and ready to get on the road. Often, the only way
The Weight Stickersto do this is to load up your rig and head for the
The RV's weight sticker displays all of the mostnearest truck stop with a scale. Weighing your rig
important weights as they apply for your RV. Theand understanding the weights you get are key to a
information on this sticker has changes over thesafe outcome.
years, but it should contain at least some combinationWeighing Your Rig
of the following:Weighing your rig is easy and costs very little
- GAWR (Gross Axle Weight Rating). The maximumcompared to the alternatives. Load your rig with
gross weight that the axles will carry. This iseverything your think is necessary, fill it with fuel and
independent of the weight rating of the tires.drive to your nearest truck stop with a scale. In
- GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating). Theorder to get enough information to calculate all the
maximum weight that the axles and/or the tires willprimary weights, you'll need to get to weighings.
carry. It is the lesser of the axle carrying capacity orFirst, weigh the entire rig as being towed, or in the
the tire carrying capacitycase of a coach with chase car attached. Just make
- UVW (Unloaded Vehicle Weight). The total weightsure both your TV (Tow Vehicle) axles and the TT
of an RV as it was delivered to the dealer. It does(Travel Trailer/5th Wheel) axle(s) are on 3 separate
not include any dealer installed accessories.weighing pads. That will give you weights for your
- NCC (Net Carrying Capacity). This is the actualsteer axle, your drive axle and your TT or chase car
amount of cargo allowed. It is in simplest terms,axle(s). Next, take the TT or chase car and "drop" it
GVWR - UVW = NCC. This is sometimes listed asin the parking area so you can come back and weigh
CCC (Cargo Carrying Capacity).just the TV or coach; again making sure the steer
- GCWR (Gross Combined Weight Rating). This is theaxle and drive axle are on different pads to get 2
maximum weight of this RV plus any towed vehicleseparate weights. From these 2 weighings you can
combined. This is listed on the RV for motor coaches,calculate all the weights you need.
but not towables. For towables you can get thisGCVW (Gross Combined Vehicle Weight) is the total
rating from the sticker on your tow vehicle.weight of the first weighing. It is important that you
- Hitch Weight. The maximum weight the hitch cando not exceed your TV's rating or your coach rating
support. In the case of a towable this is theon this. If you do, you could be find yourself facing
maximum weight the RV's hitch can support and hasthat law suit for negligence I mentioned earlier, not
nothing to do with the hitch rating of the tow vehicle.to mention that fact that it's unsafe. You coach or
In the case of a motor coach this is the hitch ratingTV are only engineered to handle that much weight
of the hitch used for towing a chase vehicle.and you could face brake failure, tire failure of other
- GVW (Gross Vehicle Weight). See GVWRissues if this weight is exceeded.
- CCC (Cargo Carrying Capacity). See NCCTV GVW (Tow Vehicle's Gross Vehicle Weight) is
- Gross Dry Weight. See UVWthe total of the second weighing. Like the GCVW, it
- Dry Axle Weight. The weight of the trailer whenis important to not exceed your TV or coach's max
the RV is on the hitch. This can be calculated asrating.
UVW - Hitch Weight = Dry Axle Weight. All of theseAxle weights. Each of your TV's axles have a max
may not be on your sticker since some only apply torating, as does your TT. From the individual weights
certain RV classifications. In addition, there may beof the axles in both weighings you can tell if you're
other weights listed. In addition to the RV's sticker,exceeding any of the max ratings for your axles. Pay
you'll need to understand the weight rating of yourparticular attention to your TV's drive axle from the
tires. For towables you'll also need to get the ratingsfirst weighing. It will be heavier than it is in the
from your tow vehicle. This sticker is usually foundsecond weighing because of the tongue weight of
on the door frame of the driver door, or can bethe TT or chase car.
located in your owner's manual. It contains many ofTT GVW (Trailer's Gross Vehicle Weight). For this
the same ratings as they apply to the tow vehicleone you need to do a bit of math, but it's not
only.difficult.
By this point I was already beginning to feel theTT GVW = GCVW - TV GVW
effects of information overload. Did I really need toBoth your TT and your hitch have a max rating for
fully understand all of these numbers as well as thethis. This weight must not exceed either the GVWR
mathematics involved? Was it possible to reduce thisof the TT as found on the sticker, or the Max
down to a manageable level and make intelligent,Towing Capacity of your TV. Hitches also have 2
informed decisions? I finally worked it out to a fewmax ratings, one for the max towing weight (this
basic formulas that allowed me to fully comprehendweight) and one for the weight of the trailer tongue.
all the important information. With that in hand, weTongue Weight. For this one you need to do a bit of
were able to make an informed purchase for ourmath as well:
new RV.Tongue Weight = GCVW - TV GVW - TT Axle
Gross WeightsWeight
Let's start with the gross weights since these areThis needs to be within the max tongue weight
ratings that are difficult to modify. It's easy to adjustrating of your particular hitch.
the amount of cargo you're carrying, or reduce theTires
amount of fresh water in the tank. The grossOne last thing ... your tires on both your TV and TT.
weights are fixed however, and short of makingMany people overlook their tire load rating. The load
major modifications to the RV, are absolute barriers.rating is found on the tires sticker and written on the
In our case we had already decided on a large travelside of your tires and should not be exceeded.
trailer for our new RV. I don't intend this article to bePersonally, I want plenty of safety margin here. If
a debate in the age-old travel trailer vs. 5th wheel vs.you run your tires very close to their max load rating
coach argument. Suffice it to say we have veryit will wear the tires prematurely. More importantly, if
good reasons for choosing a travel trailer over theyou experience a blowout of 1 tire on a tandem axle,
other classifications. With this is mind, let's look at thethe other tires are now carrying considerably more
all-important gross weights.weight than they are rated to carry; especially the
The most important weight to us were the:ones on the same side as the blow out. It is possible
- GVWR of the trailer, theto damage multiple tires in a situation like this before
- GAWR of the trailer, theyou can even get the rig stopped.
- Hitch Weight of the trailer, theConclusion
- Hitch Rating of the tow vehicle, theIf you pay the most attention to your gross weight
- Load Ratings of all our tires and theratings, the rest of the capacities seem to take care
- GCWR of the entire rig as noted on our towof themselves. Not that the others aren't important,
vehicle's sticker. These are the ratings we couldn'tit just seemed easier for me to deal with the gross
exceed regardless of how we configured the RV orratings and let the other level out as needed. Since
what we carried as cargo. There are very goodwe're full-timers that travel a lot, I weigh often. It will
engineering and legal reasons for not exceeding thesesurprise you how much "cargo" you accumulate as
ratings, no matter how you slice them. In my opinion,time goes by.
these are the most important ratings to considerIt's easy to weigh at commercial truck stops and the
when buying a new RV, regardless of what the RVcost is usually reasonable. Most truck stops will only
dealer may try to convince you of.charge you full price for the first weighing, then a
The Dealer Dilemmasmall additional price for the second weighing. The last
In our search we ran across both honest dealers andtime I weighed at a CAT scale at a Love's truck
those that were not so honest about RV weightstop, they charges me $7.00 for the initial weighing
ratings. The majority of the time however, theand only $1.00 for the second one. A small price to
dealers were neither. They simply didn't understandpay for peace of mind.
these weight ratings and were either misinformed or